Thursday, January 21, 2010

Noah's diaper pants



I started a knitting circle with some ladies from my mom's group and one of them said she wanted to make wool diaper pants for her son. I searched and searched and couldn't find a pattern I liked that didn't use DPNs. This woman is a beginner, so I didn't want to discourage her.
What's a knitter to do? Why, create her own design!
Here is the pattern: Noah’s Knitted Diaper Pants


Yarn:

250 yds of Aran or Worsted weight yarn. If you want to use them as cloth diaper covers, you must use yarn that is at least 70% wool. I used Mission Falls Superwash 100% Merino wool. It’s great because it’s machine washable, it’s expensive, though. It cost me about $21 in yarn to make the pants. If you don’t need them to be absorbent, you can use any Aran or Worsted weight yarn. For my second pair, I’ll be using Sirdar Supersoft Toddler Aran, it’s 100% acrylic, so not good for cloth diapers, but it costs about $9 in yarn, by comparison.


Needles: One 4mm, 40cm circular needle

One 5mm, 40cm circular needle

One pair of 5mm straight needles


Notions:

Stitch Markers

Stitch Holders (I just use several large diaper pins)

Tapestry needle


Measurements:

Take the following measurements in inches:

Waist (naked) _______

Rise (from the top front of the diaper down through the legs to the centre of the crotch.) _______

Inseam (from crotch to heel) _________

Directions:
Multiply your child’s waist measurement by 5 and round up to the next number divisible by 8. Ex. 17in x 5 = 85, round up to 88.
Waist band:
CO 88 (or the number you came up with) stitches on to the 4mm circular needle, place a stitch marker after the last CO stitch and join, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Row 1: K2 P2 (repeat to end) Place a stitch marker at the halfway point. Ex. For 88 stitches, place the stitch marker after the 44th stitch
Row 2: P2 K2 (repeat to end) This will now be referred to as 2x2 rib. Work in 2x2 rib for 2inches.
Body: Switch to 5mm circular needle. Knit plain until the piece reaches the required number of inches based on the rise measurement, from the beginning of the waist band to the needle.
On the last round, BO the first 4 sts, continue knitting the round, BO 4 sts before the next stitch marker, BO 4 sts after the stitch marker.
Continue knitting the round. BO the last 4 sts, break yarn leaving a 4 inch tail and thread tail through the last st. The BO stitches will later be sewn together to create the crotch. The remaining stitches will become the legs.
Legs: Place the sts to one side of the crotch on stitch holders. Place the remaining sts on to 5mm straight needles. Work in St st for the number of inches in your inseam measurement, less 1 inch. Ex. 9in – 1in = 8in. Ending in a WS row.
Cuffs: Row 1: Purl Row 2: Knit Row 3: Purl Row 4: Knit Row 5: Purl BO knitwise Transfer remaining sts on to 5mm straight needles, and follow the same instructions for the second leg. To
Make Up: Turn inside out and iron the legs and cuffs flat. If your yarn cannot be ironed, block your knitting and lay damp towels over it until dry. With RS facing, sew the legs and crotch using a length of yarn and a tapestry needle. I find it easiest to begin at the cuff of one leg and work up to the crotch, then down the other leg.
Drawstring: You can either use your leftover yarn or a contrasting colour to create a braid, then thread it through the waistband using your tapestry needle. I did mine a little lower than halfway down the waistband.
They are so cozy, I'd like a pair for myself! Happy knitting!

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