Thursday, January 28, 2010

Oceanside Ankle Socks


Well, I'm desperate for a warm weather holiday but I have 8 weeks to go until my trip south. I knited these using yarn that makes me think of the beach. Hopefully they'll tide me over!

Yarn: Knit Picks Felici, Colorway: Meridien
Needles: 2.25 mm DPNs, set of 5
Gauge: 8 sts = 1 inch
Size: Fits women's size 8 but you can lengthen or shorten the length of the foot.
Notions: Stitch marker, tapestry needle


Cuff: Using the long tail method, CO 72 sts and divide evenly on 4 needles. Join the round and work in 2x2 rib for 1.5 inches.


Leg:
Round 1: Knit
Round 2: K2tog to end (36sts)
Round 3: Knit through the front and back of the loop to end (72 sts)
Round 4: Knit
These 4 rounds establish the pattern. Work pattern 1 more time (4 rounds).


Heel Flap:
Knit across the first needle (18sts), turn purl across the first needle and the 4th needle. You should have 36 sts on 1 needle. Leave the remaining 36 sts on the 2nd and 3rd needles for the instep.
Working the heel flap sts only:
Row 1: *S1 PW, K1 repeat from * to end
Row 2: *S1 PW, P to end
Continue until you have worked 36 rows.


Turn Heel:
Row 1: (RS) K20, ssk, k1, TURN
Row 2: (WS) S1 PW, p5, p2tog, p1 TURN
Row 3: S1 PW, knit to 1 stitch before gap, ssk (1 stitch from each side of gap), k1, TURN
Row 4: S1 PW, p to 1 stitch before gap, p2tog (1 stitch from each side of gap) p1, TURN

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all sts have been worked, ending in a WS row. On the last repeat, row 3 will end with ssk and row 4 will end with p2tog. (20sts)


Gusset:
Round 1: With needle 1, knit across all heel sts and pick up and knit 19 sts along the edge of the heel flap. With needle 2, work across the first 18 instep sts in pattern beginning with row 1, with needle 3 knit across the remaining instep sts in pattern, With needle 4, pick up and knit 19 sts along the other side of the heel flap, then knit then knit across the first 10 sts on needle 1.


Needle 1: 29 sts. Needle 2: 18 sts. Needle 3: 18 sts. Needle 4: 29 sts


Round 2: On needle 1, K to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1, on needles 2 and 3, knit, on needle 4, k1, ssk, k to end
Round 3: Knit on needles 1 and 4, work in pattern on needles 2 and 3.
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until 72 sts remain. 18 sts each needle.

Foot:
Continue knitting on needles 1 and 4 and working in pattern on needles 2 and 3 without decreasing until the foot measures 2 inches less than desired foot length.

From this point on, you will no longer work in pattern. All needles will be worked in stockinette stitch.


Toe:

Round 1: On needle 1, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On needle 2, k1, ssk, kto end. On needle 3, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On needle 4, k1, ssk, k to end.

Round 2: Knit

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until 36 sts remain.

Repeat round 1 only until 16 sts remain. Using needle 4, knit across needle 1. Slip the 4 sts from needle 2 onto needle 3. You should now have 2 needles with 8 sts each. Graft to close the toe using kitchener stitch.

Thursday, January 21, 2010

Braided newborn hat and socks




I made this hat for my friend's new baby. When my son was born, he was 7lbs and we couldn't find hats that were small enough for him. Other friends have had this problem too, so this one is nice and tiny! Along with the socks below, they make a great 1 skein gift. The whole project only takes about 3 hours to knit!


Yarn: Moda Dea Bamboo Wool
Needles: 4mm DPNs
Gauge: 5sts = 1 inch



Brim:
Cast on 60 sts and divide evenly over 3 needles. Join and place marker.
Round 1: *K2, P2, repeat from * to end.

Rounds 2-10: Work the 2x2 rib, but for the knit stitches, knit into the back of the first stitch and do not drop it off the needle. Bring the needle around and knit the second stitch through the front of the stitch. Drop both stitches off the needle.

Body:
Work in stockinette stitch until the piece measures 4 inches.



Crown:
Round 1: K1, S1, psso, knit to the last 3 sts on the first needle, k2tog, k1 repeat this for needles 2 and 3. (54 sts)
Round 2: knit
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until you have 18 sts remaining. End on a round 2. Thread the yarn through the remaining stitches and pull tight. Weave in loose ends and voila!




Now on to the matching socks!



Needles: 3.5mm DPNs, set of 5



Leg:

CO 24 sts. Join and PM

Round 1: *K2, P2 repeat from * to end

Round 2: Work the 2x2 rib, but for the knit stitches, knit into the back of the first stitch and do not drop it off the needle. Bring the needle around and knit the second stitch through the front of the stitch. Drop both stitches off the needle.

Repeat round 2 until the leg measures 2 inches




Heel: Work on 12 sts.

Round 1: *S1 PW, K1, repeat from * to end

Round 2: *S1, PW, P to end

Repeat round 1 and 2 4 more times (total of 10 rows)




Heel turn:
Row 1: Slip 1 PW, K6, K2tog, K1, turn
Row 2: Slip 1 PW, P3, P2tog, P1, turn
Row 3: Slip 1 PW, K4, K2tog, K1, turn
Row 4: Slip 1 PW, P5, P2tog, P1, turn


Gussett:
Needle 1: Knit 4 across heel, PM, Knit 4
(the rounds will now start at the marker which is in the center of the heel)
Pick up 5 sts from side of heel flap
Needle 2: Knit across instep sts (6), keeping in pattern
Needle 3: Knit across instep sts (6), keeping in pattern

Needle 4: Pick up 5 sts from opposite side of heel flap, Knit 4 to marker



Round 1: Needle 1 – knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1
Needles 2 & 3 – knit instep sts in pattern
Needle 4 – K1, S1, K1, psso, knit to marker

Round 2: Needle 1 – knit
Needles 2 & 3 – knit instep sts in pattern
Needle 4 – knit

Repeat rounds 1 &2 three times (total of 6 rounds)

Foot:
Continue knitting Round 2 until sock measures 2” from the back of the heel

TOE:
The instep sts will now be worked in stockinette stitch, no further ribbing

Round 1: Knit all sts on all needles
Round 2: Needle 1 – Knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1
Needle 2 – K1, S1, K1, psso, knit to end
Needle 3 -- Knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1
Needle 4 – K1, S1, K1, psso, knit to end

Repeat rounds 1 & 2 twice (4 rounds)
Repeat round 2 two times (8 sts remaining)



Graft toe closed!

Santa hat with optional earflaps


Here's a Santa hat that I made for my son's first Christmas. His head measurement is 18 inches and I made the XS. It's big on him. I could have made the XXS, but this one will fit him this year and next. The earflaps are done last, so they are optional. Don't mind the one messy little pom pom, it was attacked just prior to the picture being taken. You can see the offending feline stalking the bigger one!
Yarn: Diamond Yarns Galway: 1 ball red (MC), 1 ball white (CC)
Needles: 2 sets of 5 dpns sizes 3.5mm and 4mm. 4mm straight needles plus 1 smaller straight needle.
Gauge: 20 sts = 4 inches on larger needles
Sizing: From baby to adult XXS (XS, S, M, L) Measure the wearer's head and make the hat 1 or 2 brim sizes smaller than the wearer's head, depending on how snug you like your hats.
Brim size 14 (16, 18, 20, 22)
Brim: Using 3.5 mm needles and CC, CO 70 (80, 90, 100, 110) sts and divide evenly onto 4 needles. Join round and place marker.
Rnd 1: K1, P1 to end
Rnd 2: P1, K1 to end
Repeat these two rnds for seed stitch. Continue in seed stitch until the brim measures 1 (1.25, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5) inches from cast on edge.
Body: Switch to 4 mm needles and work in stockinette stitch until the piece measures 4 (4.5, 5, 6, 7) inches.
Shape top:
1. Work 1st dec. round: *K5 (6, 7, 8, 9) K2tog rep from * to end of rnd. 60(70, 80, 90, 100) sts
2. Work plain for 8 rnds.
3. Work 2nd dec. round: *K4 (5, 6, 7, 8) K2tog rep from * to end of rnd. 50(60, 70, 80, 90) sts
4. Work plain for 8 rnds.
5. Continue alternating dec rnds decreasing 10 sts evenly, and sets of 8 plain rnds until you have 20 sts.
6. Work plain for 8 rnds
7. K2tog to end of round
8. Repeat steps 6 and 7 until you have 5 sts.
9. K2tog twice, K1 (3 sts)
10. K2tog, K1 (2sts)
11. K2tog (1 st)
12. Break yarn leaving a 6 inch tail and pull through the remaining stitch. Weave in loose ends and block. Make a large pompom using CC and sew to the top of your hat. Continue below for optional earflaps.
Earflaps: 1. Holding the hat upright with the join of the rnd (back of hat) facing, place markers for the left earflap:
Beg at the join, measure 1.75 (2, 2.25, 2.5, 2.75) inches and mark with a safety pin. Place a second pin 3 (4, 4, 4, 5) inches to the left of the first.
2. With RS facing, use smaller needles to pick up and knit 16 (20, 20, 20, 24) sts along the CO edge between the safety pins using CC
3. Turn and knit the first WS row.
4. Begin seed stitch: *K1, P1 rep from * to end
5. Next row: *P1, K1 rep from * to end
6. Shape: P2tog, *K1, P1 rep from * to last 2 sts, K2tog
7. *K1, P1 rep from * to end
8. K2tog *P1, K1 rep from * to last 2 sts, P2tog
9. *P1, K1 rep from * to last end
10. Repeat rows 6-9 until you have 4 sts.
11. Slip remaining 4sts on to 4mm dpn and knit a cord. (8 in. for baby, 10 in. for child, 12 in. for adult)
12. Repeat for right earflap, only place markers to the right of the join.
13. Attach small pompoms to the ends of the cords.
Note: This hat is adapted from a master pattern in Teach Yourself Visually Knitting Design by Sharon Turner

Big cozy hat!


I designed this hat for my sister's Christmas gift. I wanted it nice and big because my sister has an average sized head, but lots of thick hair. I love how it turned out. It's big and warm and super cozy! Not to mention that it's so easy to knit. It took me about 2 hours. There will be a scarf to match very soon!


Big Cozy Hat:


Yarn: Schachenmayr Nomotta Silenzio, Colourway: 00005 (Super Bulky) 1.5 skeins
Needles: 6.5 mm 16" circ, set of 5 6mm DPNs
Gauge: 13 stitches and 20 rows = 4 inches
Size: Fits an average woman's head with lots of hair

Cast on 60 stitches on to circular needle, place marker and join.
Round 1- 4: *K1 P1* to end
Round 5: Cast on 1 stitch at the beginning of the round (61 stitches). P1 *K3 P1* to end
Round 6-8: K to end
Round 9: K2 P1 *K3 P1* to last 2 stitches, K2
Round 10-12: K to end
Repeat rows 5-12 3 times more.

Decrease:
Round 1: P1 *K3 P1* to end
Round 2: *K8 K2tog* to last 2 stitches, K2 (55 stitches)
Round 3: K to end
Round 4: *K6 K2tog* to last 7 stitches, K7 (49 stitches)
Round 5: K2, P1 *K3 P1* to last 2 stitches, K2
Round 6: *K4 K2tog* to last stitch, K1 (41 stitches)
Round 7: K to end
Round 8: *K3 K2tog* to last stitch, K1 (33 stitches)
Round 9: P1 *K3 P1* to end
Round 10: *K2 K2tog* to last stitch, K1 (23 stitches)
Round 11: K to end
Round 12: *K1 K2tog* to last stitch K1 (17 stitches)
Round 13: K to end
Round 14: *K2 tog* to last stitch K1 (9 stitches)

Break yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail and thread tail through the remaining 9 stitches. Weave in loose ends.
Enjoy!

Noah's diaper pants



I started a knitting circle with some ladies from my mom's group and one of them said she wanted to make wool diaper pants for her son. I searched and searched and couldn't find a pattern I liked that didn't use DPNs. This woman is a beginner, so I didn't want to discourage her.
What's a knitter to do? Why, create her own design!
Here is the pattern: Noah’s Knitted Diaper Pants


Yarn:

250 yds of Aran or Worsted weight yarn. If you want to use them as cloth diaper covers, you must use yarn that is at least 70% wool. I used Mission Falls Superwash 100% Merino wool. It’s great because it’s machine washable, it’s expensive, though. It cost me about $21 in yarn to make the pants. If you don’t need them to be absorbent, you can use any Aran or Worsted weight yarn. For my second pair, I’ll be using Sirdar Supersoft Toddler Aran, it’s 100% acrylic, so not good for cloth diapers, but it costs about $9 in yarn, by comparison.


Needles: One 4mm, 40cm circular needle

One 5mm, 40cm circular needle

One pair of 5mm straight needles


Notions:

Stitch Markers

Stitch Holders (I just use several large diaper pins)

Tapestry needle


Measurements:

Take the following measurements in inches:

Waist (naked) _______

Rise (from the top front of the diaper down through the legs to the centre of the crotch.) _______

Inseam (from crotch to heel) _________

Directions:
Multiply your child’s waist measurement by 5 and round up to the next number divisible by 8. Ex. 17in x 5 = 85, round up to 88.
Waist band:
CO 88 (or the number you came up with) stitches on to the 4mm circular needle, place a stitch marker after the last CO stitch and join, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Row 1: K2 P2 (repeat to end) Place a stitch marker at the halfway point. Ex. For 88 stitches, place the stitch marker after the 44th stitch
Row 2: P2 K2 (repeat to end) This will now be referred to as 2x2 rib. Work in 2x2 rib for 2inches.
Body: Switch to 5mm circular needle. Knit plain until the piece reaches the required number of inches based on the rise measurement, from the beginning of the waist band to the needle.
On the last round, BO the first 4 sts, continue knitting the round, BO 4 sts before the next stitch marker, BO 4 sts after the stitch marker.
Continue knitting the round. BO the last 4 sts, break yarn leaving a 4 inch tail and thread tail through the last st. The BO stitches will later be sewn together to create the crotch. The remaining stitches will become the legs.
Legs: Place the sts to one side of the crotch on stitch holders. Place the remaining sts on to 5mm straight needles. Work in St st for the number of inches in your inseam measurement, less 1 inch. Ex. 9in – 1in = 8in. Ending in a WS row.
Cuffs: Row 1: Purl Row 2: Knit Row 3: Purl Row 4: Knit Row 5: Purl BO knitwise Transfer remaining sts on to 5mm straight needles, and follow the same instructions for the second leg. To
Make Up: Turn inside out and iron the legs and cuffs flat. If your yarn cannot be ironed, block your knitting and lay damp towels over it until dry. With RS facing, sew the legs and crotch using a length of yarn and a tapestry needle. I find it easiest to begin at the cuff of one leg and work up to the crotch, then down the other leg.
Drawstring: You can either use your leftover yarn or a contrasting colour to create a braid, then thread it through the waistband using your tapestry needle. I did mine a little lower than halfway down the waistband.
They are so cozy, I'd like a pair for myself! Happy knitting!